Friday, July 18, 2014

Growler Fill Stations

I'm about to get my weekend started, but wanted to offer some quick thoughts on a recent phenomenon that's been very surprising to see.

I'm referring to the recent explosion of growler fill stations and bars in Eugene. A quick search turns up more than half a dozen dedicated growler-filling establishments - among them Growler Guys, Growler Nation, Steel Pail, Growler University, and The Filling Station. I've also heard of some local markets, restaurants, and gas stations getting in on this concept. Doubtless there are even more planned in the coming year or two.

What's remarkable about this to me is that all of the growler-filling establishments have opened in the last year - Growler Nation was the first, in late June 2013. I've had the chance to visit most of these locations, and they're all busy and popular. So now I'm wondering why.

Let's face it - growlers are a cumbersome, awkward way to get beer. It's true that they reduce packaging and allow customers to get fresh beer that's not available in cans or bottles. They're also a good deal compared to drinking draft pints - most places have fills of great beer for $10 or less. But there's a lot of drawbacks, too. They're not airtight, for the most part, and once opened, they oxidize and go flat within a day or two, necessitating quick drinking for optimal flavor. They also require substantial cleaning between fills - not an easy feat, considering the small neck. And for home drinking, they're still not a great deal compared to most prepackaged beer.

But clearly there's something a lot of people really like about the idea of taking half-gallons of beer to go. Though the growler idea doesn't greatly appeal to me, these establishments are also providing an excellent side benefit - the continued expansion of Eugene's available draft beer, wine, and cider. Most of these places have more than 20 taps, so it's a fair bet that between all of them and our great beer bars, there's something on tap in town for just about anyone's taste.

I'm just not sure if growlers are a solid basis for a business model. I certainly don't wish failure on any fill station - the folks behind them are good people who work hard. But I wouldn't be surprised if one or more of these guys go under in the next year or two, because these places are designed to primarily fill growlers. There's not much seating or food to speak of, and so it'd never occur to me to stop in for a pint unless there was something absolutely stunning on tap.

I think Tap & Growler is doing it the best way. By having tons of wine on tap, a pleasant ambiance, lots of seating, and decent food on offer, they've established themselves as more than just a fill station for beer. And even if the growler trend cools off significantly, they'll be in a good position to soldier on as a bar.

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