With the new year's arrival, I've been doing a lot of thinking about what 2015 might mean for the craft beer industry. I was pleased to see that Andy Crouch wrote a thought-provoking piece about Jim Koch and Sam Adams and their place in today's beer market. The article's long, but well worth the read.
The most revealing quote in the article, to me, was Deep Ellum's owner saying he wouldn't stock Boston Beer products because they're "mediocre" and "middle of the road".
I marvel at how far we've come.
Twenty years ago, Sam Adams was one of the few craft beers being widely distributed. It became wildly and widely successful - and rightfully so. It's sessionable, with a good light malt profile and a clean finish, and pairs well with just about everything. I'd hesitate to call it a mediocre beer by any standard.
But, as Crouch reveals, the craft industry has matured rapidly, especially in the past ten years. There are now more breweries in America than at any time since the Great Depression and Prohibition, making countless beers of nigh-limitless variety. Heck, in Eugene alone there's probably at least 100 distinct beers being brewed at any given time.
I think that Koch and Sam Adams have slowly become victims of their own success. The omnipresence of Boston Lager - it can reasonably be expected on tap at most non-craft-oriented bars and lounges around the country - means that it's easy to take for granted. For today's serious craft drinkers, there are now more interesting and flavorful options in easy reach; it's likely they're even being made locally.
And that's why places like Deep Ellum in Boston (or the Bier Stein in Eugene) probably won't have Boston Lager on tap. It's caught in an unenviable position - too bland and uninteresting for today's craft drinkers, and too malty and heavy for those who generally drink macro lagers. And it's a huge national brand in a time where the trend has been to focus on locality and supporting smaller businesses.
No comments:
Post a Comment